I carried out a preliminary excursion a few days in advance of Terminalia. I wanted to check if there was any safe and legal route I could take from the Beech Woods to Fulbourn Road. The Beech Woods are immediately South of the Worts Causeway, a road which sits on the boundary of the City and South Cambs District, at the Southern extremity of Cherry Hinton City Council Ward. But this is well outside the 'village' of Cherry Hinton which is located the other side of the Lime Kiln Hill to the North. The Beech Woods mark the beginning of an area containing the Roman Road, Wandlebury Ring and the Gog Magog Hills. I had not been to the woods for sometime. I was looking to find a particular feature, a carved tree with the face of an old man, possibly a wizard, set into its trunk.
A friend of mine had tipped me off about the tree. It had featured on the front cover of the first album by the local psych combo Psychic Lemon. The existence of the wizard-like face was confirmed on a forum dedicated to tree carving from several years ago. I had intended to start the walk from the tree, which seems to have some significance as a marker, signifying the threshold between the ends of the peripheral agricultural land between Lime Kiln Hill and Cherry Hinton in one direction and Fulbourn in the other, as well as the beginning of the Gog Magog Hills and Wandlebury Ring to the South East; an area associated with ancient burial mounds, hillforts and numerous myths and legends. I imagined the carving in the tree as an avatar of Terminus and suitable place to begin a walk for Terminalia.
But I never found the tree, nor a pedestrian way across from the Beech Woods that joined them to Cherry Hinton. No paths with public right of way existed across the fields that separated the Beech Woods from Fulbourn Road and the Robin Hood pub. I knew it was possible to walk along the edge of a field up to the back of the chalk pits having done it it once before, unplanned. But the route was unofficial, and I couldn't quite work out where I had emerged from on that occasion, having come from the other direction on a walk during lockdown. The only other option was Lime Kiln Hill, which has no pedestrian footpaths alongside the road which is bendy and contains random fast cars. I made an attempt to walk up, but aborted when the rough grass verge ran out just as it approached a sharp bend. It seemed foolish to carry on. I reflected that they used to make us do cross country running here and I used to cycle up the hill with my mates often when I was probably at junior school without much worry. This made me feel a bit less intrepid and bold in my perambulation, but I quickly decided that psychogeography was best done based on the avoidance of known danger, rather than walking directly into it on purpose.
I abandoned the idea of starting my Terminalian drift at the Beech Woods and settled for a less ambitious and less hazardous walk beginning in the car park of the Robin Hood pub, located on the edge of Cherry Hinton 'village' and at the end of the Fulbourn Road.
On the morning of Terminalia, Friday 23rd February, I placed my foot into the depression in the stone that sits in the Robin Hood car park, now unceremoniously wedged between a post and a fence. The stone has existed in the car park for as long as I can recall. It is said variously to be glacial erratic, a base of a cross or post of some kind, a kingship stone and, most appropriately for today, a 'marching' stone used by Romans. It is said that such stones were used by the Romans before setting off on a long march. Placing the foot in the depression at the beginning and end of a journey was said to bring good luck. 'pro itu et reditu' ('For the journey, and the return') was apparently inscribed into such stones (but not this one as far as I could see). I wasn't planning a regimented march, or necessarily a return back to this spot, but the sentiment still seemed to fit. There was an element of the unknown ahead and setting the foot into the stone seemed an appropriate way to mark the start of the journey. The stone in its own way also marked a threshold to both Cherry Hinton village and into the pub. But I didn't cross the threshold into either.
Instead, I headed across Fulbourn Road and to the small 1970s housing estate based around two cul-de-sacs named Tweedale and Ainsdale. This area sits behind a row of brown council houses that date probably from the late 1930s that set back from the main Fulbourn Road. 'Tweedale' was the name I'd always associated with the whole area, although my actual associations with it were tenuous. The last time I could recall visiting the estate was the day of the Royal Wedding in 1981. There was a disco on a tent on a small green, they played the Specials and Madness. But I couldn't place where the tent had been located, there seemed no suitable spot. I wondered if the event had actually taken place. Behind Tweedale is one of the fields that I was hoping to emerge from. But from this end it was confirmed that no obvious way into the field exists, even to get to the back of the Spinney which sits next to Tweedale. Instead, immediately behind the estate in 'the land West of Peterhouse Technology Park', a large new office or more likely lab space is being built overlooking the Tweedale residents car park.
I left Tweeddale and continued along Fulbourn Road, bordering the Southern extremity of Cherry Hinton. I passed the building now occupied by Cambridge Water on the North side. This was once the headquarters of Acorn computers, makers of the BBC B computer which proliferated in schools in a time before 'windows' or the internet. Acorn were part of the Cambridge Phenomena and in the early 1980s the building sat alone in its peripheral location. But now it has been engulfed by the Peterhouse Business Park next door, home of Arm, a company that Acorn morphed into in the 1990s.
Peterhouse College owns the land the business park sits on and has been a major land owner in the area for some time. St Thomas's Hospital also owns land in the area, notably to the North, where the residential areas bifurcated by Queen Edith's Way are located and which are linked to the Beech Woods by Worts Causeway. Queen Edith's way refers to Edith Swan-Neck, hand fast wife of King Harold, who owned the land in the Saxon period. Although it is thought the road was originally mistakenly named after the other Queen Edith, the wife of Edward the Confessor, who had no connection with the area at all.
I was tempted to have a meander around the business park but I could sense an atmosphere of 'not quite public' space about it, despite the apparently open access. Also it looked quite a dull prospect. Both aspects were mildly repellant and encouraged me to stay on the other side of the road.
Almost immediately opposite I soon reached a significant threshold. The path pictured below below marks the border between the post war council Bridewell Road estate that sits at the end of Cherry Hinton proper. On the other side of the path, and the City administrative boundary, is the newer residential area that developed in the late 1980s and 1990s, creeping towards Fulbourn and administratively sits in South Cambs. This more recent residential zone sits at the edge of a peripheral space that exists between Fulbourn and Cherry Hinton. The two villages (Cherry Hinton is barely that these days) are being drawn ever closer together by increasing development and may become a single suburb in the fullness of time. At that point the peripheral zone between them will disappear into (imperfect) memory..
Marking this threshold from old to new Cherry Hinton was a green utilities box, featuring the Cambridge Heron, further out of town that I'd seen it before and with less of an air of 'official' street art about it than it has in most places these days. Accompanying it was a monkey face and the 'Poxy' tag, both of which seemed much more fitting with Cherry Hinton. The faces of the Heron and Monkey both faced East, towards Fulbourn as if they were pioneers, occupying frontier territory.
A road sign showed the approach of the roundabout, the left turn leading into the peripheral zone and towards somewhere called Springstead Village, a place I had never heard of before.
Across the street a truncated bus stop stood more or less on the border, resembling an abandoned checkpoint.
I looked back from the border path along the grassy barrier between the Bridewell Road Estate and Fulbourn Road. I couldn't remember it looking like this when I was a child, and in fact had no real memory of what it was like at all although I used to have friends on the Estate when I was growing up. In the other direction the grass continued but appeared more manicured and less 'common' like. Maybe the newer area on the South Cambs side sought to distance itself and present a more aspirational image. But I preferred the 'common' side to the tidier and golf course like Western counterpart.
I continued towards the roundabout, along the the shared cycle path which was devoid of people.
The left turn took me into Yarrow Road, which is one half of a sort of 'main' road that skirts around the edge of the periphery of 'New Cherry Hinton'. The streets in the residential area next to this half of the road all seem to be named after plants; Speedwell Close, and Teesal Way for example. No doubt a reference to things that grew in fields here before the houses were developed. On the other side was a manicured area of green behind a fence, which seemed devoid of such things although did have some trees.
Behind the trees the 'tower' of Fulbourn Hospital loomed up. This spectral sight was something I could see from my bedroom window when I was a child in Cherry Hinton. Sporadically a siren would go off at the hospital. It was believed by the children of 'Hinton (and probably some of the adults) that the siren signalled the escape of a patient from the hospital. The siren and image of the tower were intertwined in my mind as symbolising something sinister happening in a place that seemed distant enough to feel strange but close enough to bring unease. Years later, when I was older, the myths of escapees was born out when my Dad discovered an old lady in our shed who seemed happy enough but obviously troubled. She had swapped her reasonably nice boots for my Dads old gardening shoes. The hospital confirmed she was 'one of theirs' when my Dad called to check and they came and gave her a lift back. Any ghostly and sinister connotations the tower had been forgotten by that point. But as I walked past on Terminalia, probably 35 years later, the feeling partially returned.
The view of the hospital was soon replaced with the more mundane Tescos car park. This Tescos is referred to as Fulbourn Tescos although it is not really in Fulbourn. Its closest neighbour is the hospital and Capital Park behind it and the closest houses are just across the road in 'new' Cherry Hinton.
At the pedestrian threshold of Tescos car park was a chipboard advertising hoarding. This seemed unofficial and contained adverts for fringe businesses. On offer today were mattresses, on a sign that seems to occasionally spring up on the lamp posts of Cambridge, and a landscaping service that was 'working in your area'. The notice was another avatar of Terminus, this one marking the threshold into a world of golf course style landscaped shopping mundanity. I did not cross.
The railway line separates the two halves of the road, marking the point where Yarrow Road turns into 'Gazelle Way'. The grey fence marked a threshold, not just one of changing road names but a more sorrowful one. Flowers and soft toys were placed at various points, up against and hanging from the grey spiky fences next to the railway crossing, among the police warning signs and one for the samaritans. Before the development of Tescos and 'new' Cherry Hinton, the railway crossing was slightly nearer the hospital and featured a telephone where the distressed could call for help. But it wasn't always used. The proximity to the hospital of the crossing and the siren were of course connected. The flowery shrines confirmed that the crossing still took some people to the 'other side'.
The location of the crossing was named 'Cherry Hinton By Pass' which seemed ominously pertinent.
I did not cross the threshold into Gazelle Way at this point, but took the path leading along the railway towards the hospital and Fulbourn beyond that. I passed another shrine, a white bear sitting on top of a concrete sewage marker post with flowers on its head. A mournful avatar of Terminus.
Through the trees I could see the 'spire' of Tescos. They all have them, but due to its proximity this one reminded me of the tower nearby. The building appeared sinister and institutional from this angle.
I emerged into the grassy grounds of the hospital and followed a barely visible 'desire' path through some posts.
This lead me to a small collection of gravestones. Three of them close to each other.
The end two 'belonged' to particular people. The middle one to a multitude of former patients of the hospital buried in the cemetery from 1862 to 1955. The memorial stone marks the site of the former chapel.
There was another newer lone gravestone standing next to the fence at the boundary of the site, a few feet away.
After loitering among the graves for a few minutes, I moved on, leaving the zone of memorials and the interface between life and death.
A section of wall, presumably a remnant of a larger one that used to surround the Victorian asylum, was festooned with street art/graffiti. The difference between the two is often marginal. That the wall is never cleaned indicated the art work was at least semi-official. The wall seemed a bit out of place, as if part of a more urban or suburban environment had somehow materialised into the space from somewhere else. The wall was an early adopter, an indicator of the development to come that will most likely see an increasing suburbanisation and filling in of the Cherry Hinton/Fulbourn interzone. The green face a symbol of both the interzone itself and the change to come, another avatar of Terminus.
The road alongside the power station led back to where the original railway crossing and telephone used to be, just past a mobile home site. The mobile home site used to be owned and run by the mum of a boy I was at school with. She lived in a bungalow on the site and had a frightening black dog on a long chain. To my young mind it resembled Zoltan Hound of Dracula or Black Shuck and was a creature not to be trifled with. I'd seen the hammer film 'Zoltan' on Horror Double Bill and had read of Black Shuck, probably in one of those Usbourne 'world of the unknown' books that were prevalent at the time. Now the caravans that used to be on the site had been replaced with posher looking park homes and there was no sign of a black dog. But the place still had a strange liminal feel about it. The location at the end of the road, now completely a dead end with grey spiky fences, piles of leaves and a utility box of some kind with the view of the hospital beyond, enhanced this feeling.
I retraced my steps and crossed over Yarrow Road onto what used to be a continuation of the road I was just on. Here the path and fence now blocked cars continuing along Fulbourn Old Drift. This was another boundary/barrier that had been inserted onto this road, interrupting the old continuous link between Fulbourn and Cherry Hinton. There are other 'drifts' not far away, or were. Long Drift and Trumpington Drift are now Cherry Hinton Road and Queen Edith's Way. These roads existed in agricultural landscape prior to the inclosure in 1810. The word 'drift' brought to mind long slow meandering along the track, unhindered by cars, joggers and other forms of modern busyness. But Fulbourn Old Drift now offered a more disrupted and built up journey.
The bungalows gave way to the newer 1970s council estate and opposite my former Junior School. In the early 1980's it was known as the Cherry Hinton Community Junior School. Now it's branded 'Berwick Bridge Community Primary School'. Berwick Bridge was a vicar of the parish and fellow of Peterhouse College. The school had to change it's name when it and the infants school on the high street both became 'primary' schools. The children were given the task of finding a new name, based on history and geography of the area. Berwick Bridge was chosen, due to the obvious connections. Another suggestion was 'Fizzy Pop School', but although the governing body were 'delighted' by this idea it was discarded. I wondered if the suggestion was a reference to the provision of fizzy drinks and other junk food in vending machines in schools. A phenomena that hadn't materialised when I was at the school. The Vicarage up the road, meanwhile, has been demolished and the site developed for housing.
Access to the walkways between the houses was limited due to ongoing development. I took the path around the water feature. This was similar to those seen at other new developments like Marleigh. An apparent trench dug and filled with water to make a rectangular sort of mini lake/large pond. Presumably deep enough to drown in given the lifebuoy located alongside.
After a wander around the artificial water feature, I took leave of the estate. I realised that I had come full semi circle, through the outlying Western edge of Cherry Hinton and the Fulbourn borderland. I noted that Springfield village straddled over the Country Parish boundary into South Cambs, Northwards, extending the reach of Cherry Hinton and by extension Cambridge. The border itself seemed temporary. The administrative boundary, which presently cuts diagonally across the airfield. would surely have to be redrawn. This seemed a natural end to the walk. The ancient Giants Grave and foot stone where I started the walk seemed a world away. The walk had taken me across a temporal boundary into the near future, and to a conjunction of boundaries both administrative and physical.
No comments:
Post a Comment