The Icknield Way is the territory of archaeologists, earth mystery types, ramblers and 'nature writers'. It is said to be one of four ancient trading routes across England, the others being Watling Street, Ermine Street and Fosse Way. The notable published guide being that of Edward Thomas, whose steps Robert Macfarlane retraced in 'The Old Ways'.
Norton, the prisoner of London, is the avatar of Iain Sinclair. Sinclair has attempted to escape London, at least to stop writing about it. The Last Of London marked a sort of winding up, liquidation or retirement. Coincidentally, the British Motorcycle Manufacturer Norton was reported as going into administration the morning I set off for Letchworth. Sinclair, though, will always be associated with London and his spectre will never leave. Even if in Hastings or elsewhere (probably not Letchworth) he will remain the the Prisoner of London.
The intersection of these rural (Macfarlane) and urban (Sinclair) forms is pertinent. Letchworth was (is) the First Garden City. The first realisation of the vision of Ebeneezer Howard and his Garden City movement, which attempted to create a Utopian settlement combining the best if both worlds where people could live and work.
Letchworth had something of the atmosphere of places like Silver Village, which shared similar self contained Utopian values. All that was required for living: jobs, housing, leisure and municipal facilities were provided in a tranquil setting independent from the outside.
But at a human level, the place felt more like a suburb. A distorted Metroland. Their were few people around at nine in the morning. Those occupying an otherwise modern, faux hipster coffee establishment were mainly retirees, discussing Alan Brazil on Sky Sports. Most of the working population appeared to have shipped out to London for the day. I had encountered a crowd of them earlier, trying to burst through the train doors as I alighted and struggled to squeeze through against the tide. An updated scene from Dawn of the Dead . Smart phone zombies with blue faces caused by the reflective glow of their mobile devices. They are transported to the City for the day (every day) to return to a semi-dormitory town to eat and sleep. A semi-dormant place. The original vision of Howard had been disrupted at some point along the way by London, sucking the life out of it.
On my way back to the Rail Station I was a bit disappointed, but by that stage not surprised, to find The Garden City Brewery along with several cafes and shops closed until later in the week (it was Tuesday). While it's physical form has been preserved by heritage bureaucrats, Letchworth has become an outpost dormitory on the outer orbit of the Home Counties commuter belt. The town itself and it's mobile device fixated zombie 'dormers' are, like Norton, prisoners of London.
Letchworth had something of the atmosphere of places like Silver Village, which shared similar self contained Utopian values. All that was required for living: jobs, housing, leisure and municipal facilities were provided in a tranquil setting independent from the outside.
But at a human level, the place felt more like a suburb. A distorted Metroland. Their were few people around at nine in the morning. Those occupying an otherwise modern, faux hipster coffee establishment were mainly retirees, discussing Alan Brazil on Sky Sports. Most of the working population appeared to have shipped out to London for the day. I had encountered a crowd of them earlier, trying to burst through the train doors as I alighted and struggled to squeeze through against the tide. An updated scene from Dawn of the Dead . Smart phone zombies with blue faces caused by the reflective glow of their mobile devices. They are transported to the City for the day (every day) to return to a semi-dormitory town to eat and sleep. A semi-dormant place. The original vision of Howard had been disrupted at some point along the way by London, sucking the life out of it.
On my way back to the Rail Station I was a bit disappointed, but by that stage not surprised, to find The Garden City Brewery along with several cafes and shops closed until later in the week (it was Tuesday). While it's physical form has been preserved by heritage bureaucrats, Letchworth has become an outpost dormitory on the outer orbit of the Home Counties commuter belt. The town itself and it's mobile device fixated zombie 'dormers' are, like Norton, prisoners of London.
No comments:
Post a Comment